Discovering Morocco's amazing nature

Week 02 - From Fes to Boudnib

It was an eventful second week in Morocco, where we finally discovered beautiful places surrounded by nature, explored a sketchy mining site underground and unfortunately fell victim to food poisoning that put us out of action for a couple of days. Despite some minor challenges, we begin to feel at ease in this country and we are falling in love with the landscapes around us.

Day 8 - The Cedar Forest and its monkeys

Fes > Azrou

We leave the campsite in Fes and head south to Ifrane, also known as the Switzerland of Morocco. After a short stroll through the town, which seemed rather anonymous and lacking in character, we head for the Cedar Forest. First, however, we stop in a small village near Azrou to buy fruit and vegetables and enjoy a strong mint tea at a café, where Morocco's African Cup of Nations match is playing on TV. We enter the forest via a dirt road, along which we find some Moroccan tourists enjoying a picnic and a few wild monkeys.

We stop for a bite to eat in a sunny spot in the trees of the dense forest. We are finally back in the green, in nature, far from masses of people or tourists and with the sound of silence accompanying our afternoon. We deflate the tyres a little and explore the dirt roads surrounding the area, looking for a secluded spot for the night. After a few kilometres we take an impervious road to the left. The terrain, characterised by gravel and loose rocks, and the double-digit gradients make the climb challenging.

As the vegetation slowly changes and we leave the forest, we meet an off-road vehicle heading in the opposite direction with two local shepherds in it, very friendly and smiling, with whom we exchange a chat and a warm greeting. We continue up the slope until we reach a plateau at an altitude of around 2000m. From here the view is beautiful and there is a great sense of peace, despite a few shelters and the cry of sheep in the distance. Although still visible and on the edge of the road, we decide to stop there for the night.

The cold makes itself known. Zero degrees are forecast for the night, so soon after sunset we take refuge inside to eat something warm and enjoy a cold beer.

Curiosity of the day: We didn’t really expect to see monkeys in Morocco - the Barbary macaque monkeys that we saw in the Azrou forest are the only primates north of the Sahara on the African continent, and the only macaque living outside of Asia. As few as 4000 of the endangered monkeys remain in Morocco.

Day 9 - A long day of off-roading

Azrou > Midelt

It is cold in the morning and as we watch the su rise, we wait for it to melt the frost on the van. Quite spontaneously, while having breakfast, we decide to cover the distance between Azrou and Midelt (about 150km) mainly by off-road route. After all, for us, the journey has now become the primary purpose, the experience to be enjoyed. It is no longer necessarily as much about reaching the next destination in the fastest way possible as it used to be. 

So we travel almost 150 km on dirt roads, exploring wild forests and passing through small mountain 'towns', where children play in the streets, some greeting us, others trying to stop us and asking for money. This affects us emotionally, because we are not yet sure how to deal with it and it makes the whole trip, which is already tiring given the condition of the road, even more challenging. At one point we take a wrong turn, but thanks to Joy's great assistance as co-pilot, we find our way back on track.

After a very long drive and having made good use of our ARB compressor to adjust the tyre pressure to the varying road conditions, we arrive at the outskirts of Midelt. Darkness has already fallen. On the Park4Night app, we had identified a spot near a reservoir to spend the night. We go in search of it and after a few kilometres of dirt road in the dark, we choose to park in a flat, open space in the hope of waking up with a fantastic view of the surrounding landscape the next morning.

Curiosity of the day When off-roading we reduce the tyre pressure by at least 50% depending on the type of terrain. On a classic off-road track, for example, we use a pressure between 2.0 and 2.2 bar. It is therefore also important to allow time to deflate and re-inflate the tyres several times, as happened to us on this day.

Day 10 - Going into the mines 

Midelt > Aouli

In the morning, what we hoped for becomes reality. When we wake up, we are surprised by an incredible 360-degree view: on one side the reservoir, on the other the snow-capped Atlas Mountains and all around us a desert landscape. We spent a nice, quiet morning, enjoying coffee in the sun, Joy reading and I playing the guitar. However, there is not only relaxation on the programme today, but also sport. Joy is in the mood for a jog, her first in Morocco. So she sets off alone on the road to Midelt, while I get the van ready, start it up and join her about 8 km further on.  

In Midelt we stop for a couple of hours to have lunch and buy fruit and vegetables for a couple of euros. By late afternoon, we head towards the mining town of Aouli, crossing a breathtaking gorge and a fairly rickety bridge. This place was recommended to us by another traveller, who described it as a fascinating and forgotten place in the middle of nowhere. Once we arrive, we are immediately greeted by Azrou. Not even time to roll down the window when he already encourages us to follow him on a tour of the mines. After a brief hesitation - both of us were not so sure about the choice - we agreed to follow him, thanks to the enthusiasm evident on the face of a German traveller who had just finished his tour.

We follow Azrou into a 1.5 km long underground tunnel. On the right, the metres that separate us from the entrance can occasionally be read in the wall. The further we go, the more slowly the metres seem to pass. A couple of times I question myself about our decision to go in, but I try not to think about it and just enjoy the adrenaline-filled moment. For a good half-hour Azrou guides us through the narrow tunnels, telling us the history of the mining site, which originated in 1912 by the French. The site was closed in 1975 and banned by the Moroccan government. Since 1997, the mining site has been 'reopened' and sees over 300 Moroccan’s risking their lives every day in search of lead and other valuable materials. Once the tour is over, happy to be safe in the open air again, Azrou invites us into the cave used as a home to drink tea and tries to sell us some crystals from the site.

We politely decline the offer, it is now late and the sun is about to set. We leave him a tip for the tour and the kindness and go in search of a place for the night. Instead of returning back to Midelt, we decide to go further into the remote valley and after a few kilometres of dirt road we find a beautiful plateau on top of a hill, from where we can admire the colours of the sky as the sun sets. 

After dinner, ready for bed, we receive a visitor. A local white van leaves the main road to join us on the hill and parks next to us. It appears to be a local farmer, together with his now grown-up son, who after greeting me, keeps repeating the same word 'mazot' for a good two minutes. Unfortunately we cannot understand each other, not even with gestures, but the two local gentlemen do not seem to be bothered by our presence and they take to the road again.

Only later, with an internet connection, does Google help us discover the meaning of the word 'mazot’: petrol or diesel. The two locals were asking us if we had petrol or diesel to give them. Had we found out earlier, I would have given them part of our 5L tank reserve, which we always carry with us. With a hint of regret that we didn't understand each other sooner, we get into bed and fall asleep in the thin air, under a breathtaking full moon.

Curiosity of the day "Mazot" in Berber means petrol or diesel. Unfortunately, we discovered this too late, when the person who found us parked in the middle of nowhere at night to ask us for some 'mazot' had already left resignedly.

Day 11 - Fire dancing with Assou

Aouli > Ziz Gorge

As always when we sleep in the wild, we wake up early and go out to enjoy the sunrise. Joy takes a few photos with her camera to capture memories of special moments. After breakfast we enjoy the absolute quiet, there seems to be no one around us. But it is just at the most beautiful moment that we hear a motorbike approaching in the distance. A few minutes later we are confronted by a man named Assou and his motorbike.

Assou speaks very little French and makes me realise with a lot of gestures that he is cold. It is 5 degrees and he is on his motorbike, in slippers and without gloves. I understand that he is asking me if we have a fire or something to make a fire. A little uncertain, I hand him a lighter. Delighted, Assou grabs it and runs towards one of the small dry bushes around the van. Before I even have time to realise, the good man sets fire to the bush, which is now slowly burning. Satisfied with his source of heat, Assou awkwardly begins to 'dance' and move around the fire to try to warm all parts of his body. One moment he seems to be sitting on the fire, seconds later he is lying on the ground with his feet in the embers. A moment that makes us smile and entertains us for a few minutes.

We join Assou around the fire, with a cup of tea, two tangerines and a quarter of a loaf of bread. We spend a few moments in his company and exchange a few words.  After refreshing himself and warming up nicely, he asks us to take a photo together and we say our goodbyes. He starts up again, heading in the same direction from which he had come.

We are thankful for his company and for an interesting morning. It is now time for us to leave as well. We pack up the van and hit the road. In order not to take the same route as the previous day, we decide to go straight ahead and return to Midelt by taking a circular route. Due to the unexpected closure of a road near the reservoir, the loop turns out to be much longer than expected and we only pass through Midelt in the early afternoon.

We take the Ziz Valley road. It is a well paved and picturesque stretch, with the road winding along the valley with impressive cliffs on either side, as if we were inside a canyon. Just along this road we decide to stop on the right at the Jurassic campsite. A quiet oasis surrounded by nature, between the river and the main road. There we meet an English family whom we had had the pleasure of meeting in the Cedar Forest a few days earlier. We do two loads of washing - at least I no longer have to turn my underwear inside out to get a clean pair - and decide to have dinner at the campsite. A good meal of vegetarian tajine for two, a salad, fruit and yoghurt to finish. We end the evening sipping a mint tea, while in the background the Morocco game kicks off with the whole camp staff glued to the TV.

Curiosity of the day On the Ziz Valley road, you pass through a rock tunnel where there are clear signs warning of a 3.5m height limit. Vehicles up to 4m high (including tourists in big camper vans) are often seen passing through anyway, taking care to stay in the middle of the tunnel, invading the opposite lane and proceeding very slowly. For those who hesitate, before the tunnel you can find local people on motorbikes, ready to give you advice or guide you through the tunnel in exchange for a small tip.

Day 12 - Even in the middle of nowhere you are never alone

Camping Jurassic > Kasbah Amjjouj

We leave the campsite in the direction of Erachidia, where we do some shopping: fruit and vegetables, a trip to the Marjane supermarket and then to the Al Barid bank ATM, where we withdraw 2000 DH without commission. In the supermarket car park we meet a nice German couple with a sprinter similar to ours. We have a chat, exchange a few tips and set off again. We retrace our steps to go in search of a secluded spot for the night in a valley that we had noticed on our way down to Erachidia. 

After several kilometres on the main road, we turn onto a dirt track. As always, we reduce the tire pressure and continue until we reach the small semi-abandoned village Kasbah Amjjouj, where we take a left turn onto a steep road up the valley. After a couple of kilometres uphill, we find a large, flat clearing just 100 metres from the road. Having parked the van, we look around and the view is truly breathtaking. As the sun is about to set, the silence in this place is indescribable. We decide that this is the right place for the night and we cannot believe how we can be alone in such a magical place.

Not even time to let it sink in, when we see a person, probably a shepherd, coming down the valley and heading towards us. Once he reaches us, he tries to say a few words to me in his language, which again I unfortunately do not understand. We give him two mandarines and without much ado he leaves, probably back to his stable. Just time for a breath and we hear a motorbike approaching in the distance, this time coming from the valley. There are two people on the motorbike, they stop on the main road and one of them comes down to meet us on foot along the bumpy road that leads to where we are standing. 

It is Said, a nomadic Berber, who lives in the semi-abandoned village just below. He has brought with him his backpack, from which he extracts, one after the other, 'precious' stones and other objects that he tries to sell us, insistently, but always with kindness and respect. Initially we politely refuse several times, until, accomplice to the knowledge that we want to sleep as 'guests' in his valley, we make an effort to find something that we might like or find useful, so that we are both satisfied. I then choose a headscarf I like and ask him how much it costs. At his first price of 50 DH, I reply with 10 DH and do not budge. Said then seems more interested in bartering and asks if we have any beer or wine. We should have five precious beers left in our stash, he asks for six. Eventually with a bit of back-and-forth we come to an agreement. Two beers (one one-litre, one 0.33) and some crayons for his children to colour in exchange for this headscarf or simple piece of fabric.

Quite exhausted by the double encounter and the haggling, we say goodbye to Said and turn around, breathing a big sigh of relief. It is there that we notice behind the mountain peaks a very large moon about to rise. We enjoy the moment for a few still minutes and are immediately reminded of how fantastic life is and, as a book I read recently by Gianluca Gotto says, there is always something wonderful happening. The night passes quietly, we fall asleep without a problem and no one comes to disturb us in this enchanting place. 

Curiosity of the day In Moroccan towns, you can often find fixed sun umbrellas by the roadside or at the entrance to a roundabout, which are used by policemen for checkpoints or to direct traffic in the shade. In the summer months, temperatures exceed 40 degrees, so a little shade doesn't hurt.

Day 13 - Grisly discoveries and food poisoning

Kasbah Amjjouj > Boudnib (Camping Rekkam)

In the morning, there is no sign of a human being in this wild place, which slowly warms up with the sun. After breakfast, we get back on the road and decide to explore the surrounding area a little. We drive down the road as far as Kasbah Amjjouj and turn left there, passing through the village and entering the valley along a narrow, unpaved road. We see, if crossing the river will enable us to find an exit on this side to reach the main road. 

After an hour or so of exploring, passing improvised cemeteries, a few empty buildings with only a couple of bones inside, and dried-up rivers, which are not crossable by van, we return the way we came and reach the main road at the same spot where we had left it the previous day. We are now proceeding at a faster speed and without various shakes and rattles dictated by the terrain.

A short coffee break by the roadside, a chat with a local eager to exchange a few minerals for some Swiss chocolate (which unfortunately we don't have) or a Swiss Army knife, and we set off again in the direction of Boudnib. Along asphalt roads, straight for several kilometres, and consequently very monotonous, we reach Boudnib. During our drive, alongside the road, we notice several date palm farms.

Boudnib is a small village on the edge of the desert, not very touristy, but where some travellers stop before continuing towards Merzouga. From there, our goal is to tackle the Boudnib - Merzouga track in the following days, which through 180km of dirt road will lead us to the dunes of Erg Chebbi. We arrive at Camping Rekkam, where we are greeted by a kind woman. We find a pitch in this very rustic but at the same time neat and pretty campsite.

We park ourselves next to a nice Swiss couple, much older than us, who with their super-equipped off-road vehicle, complete with snorkel and tent on the roof, are preparing for the next day's crossing to Merzouga. They have already done it several times and they tell us it is beautiful.

We, for our part, although we have a 4x4 which seems suitable for off-roading (the manual says that it is not meant to be used off-road, he doesn't know that) are fairly novices when it comes to slightly more demanding pistes, all the more so in the desert. At the same time we are aware of the weight of the vehicle (over 3.5t) and the fact that it is also our one and only home. For these reasons we sometimes tend to be more cautious or considerate in certain situations. In addition, if you travel together with others, you have more fun and get out of tricky situations easier and quicker. 

Given the friendliness and kindness of our Swiss neighbours, we will consider whether to join them and tackle the crossing together, or whether to stay a further night at the campsite. We will think about it over dinner.

We eat at the campsite restaurant, chicken couscous for me (it's Friday) and vegetarian Tajine for Joy. We drink hot tea and water and finish with a fruit salad. Shortly after dinner, however, the show starts. And it is not a good show, unfortunately.

Joy and I both spend the whole night vomiting and sitting on the toilet. Apparently we have caught food poisoning (a rite-of-passage for Morocco we are told) and our first night is truly hellish. Little to no sleep, stomach cramps and joint pains, with a few lines of fever. 

Curiosity of the day On our drive to Boudnib from Erachidia we crossed many farms growing palm trees. Because of its arid deserts Morocco is the perfect place for cultivating dates - if you visit around October you can see the huge bunches of dates ripening at the top of the palms. 

Day 14 & 15 - Rest of the warriors

Camping Rekkam

Let's combine these two days, since not much has happened in these 48 hours, except that by now we know the layout of the tiles and the interior of the campsite toilet by heart. Of course, we had to postpone the crossing to Merzouga and could not join our Swiss 'friends', staying another two nights at the campsite to recover. It is ironic that we ended up staying three days in the campsite where we probably caught this food poisoning, but having toilets and facilities helped us recover and we certainly didn't have the strength to go anywhere else. 

We don't want to give bad publicity or slander the campsite. We would like to emphasise, however, that there were other people who dined on the same evening and no one else seemed to have been unwell. I guess we were unlucky.

On Sunday (day 15) we are still not fit, but we slowly start to eat plain rice and crackers. We then decide to use a third day at the campsite to recover completely, go and buy some bread and water and take care of a few things, before tackling the trail on our own the next day.

Curiosity of the day When traveling we love to connect with other travellers on the road. Many older (retired) people seem to enjoy visiting Morocco, particularly those in a van or camper. We often arrive at a campsite where we are the only ‘young’ couple. On one hand it’s nice to see this generation getting out of their comfort zone, but we do sometimes miss the younger vibe a little ;)

It was an eventful week that started well and did not end in the best of ways. I would say though, that with food poisoning our acclimatisation is to all intents and purposes complete. We are now ready to enjoy Morocco, its people, its desert and its food without any more worries. Next week we will take you to the desert and it is sure to be something new and exciting. Will we get stuck? Will we find our way or will we get lost? We will soon find out. In a few days we will give you further updates with a new post!

Keep following our adventures on Instagram as well, and if you have any tips or comments, feel free to write to us. Below you can see this week's route.