Between the desert and the mountains: the beauty of Morocco

Week 03 - From Boudnib to Tinghir

A truly exhilarating week, perhaps our favourite so far, as we got to explore Morocco's nature in all its vastness and beauty. We met welcoming and generous people, drove our van (and got lost) first in the desert dunes and then at 2000 metres on narrow mountain tracks. There has been no shortage of twists and turns and we have to admit that this country has taken a hold of our hearts.

We also launched our first YouTube video Alone in the Desert (which you'll find further down in our blog) to share more about our first off-road adventure.

Day 16 - Into the desert

Off-road Boudnib > Merzouga Pt.1 

Finally recovered from the food poisoning, although still careful not to overindulge, we are super pumped up for the programme ahead. Today we start the crossing from Boudnib to Merzouga.
A total of 180km of dirt roads in the middle of the desert await us, with constantly changing terrain and scenery. For this first day, we will not set ourselves a specific goal, but we will try to cover at least half of the total distance, stopping for the night wherever we can find a quiet spot. This should not be a problem in the desert. Full tanks, a little less tyre pressure and we are ready to go.

The first few kilometres are quite sandy, so we lower the tyre pressure even further. On this initial stretch of road we come across a number of heavy vehicles belonging to the Moroccan military corps. The soldiers smile at us and make sure we're doing ok.

Gradually, the terrain changes, becoming more solid and rocky, with occasional sharp stones in the path, forcing us to slow down. A little later, however, the road becomes as smooth as a snooker table, allowing us to reach speeds of close to 80 km/h. For hours we do not meet a soul and these sci-fi landscapes leave us speechless. From time to time we stop to take a few photos and in the early afternoon we have a small lunch break next to some dunes and caves that once served as dwellings for some Berbers.

After about 85km and almost five hours on the road, passing a small nomadic village where we leave some food, the sun begins to fade and we realise it is time to look for a place to spend the night. We are spoilt for choice and looking around we see nothing or no one who could be bothered by our presence. However, determined to find a special, secluded spot, we continue for a few more kilometres until we reach a plateau overhanging the rocks, far from the main road and with a fantastic view. We don't think twice and stop for the night. As darkness falls, I light a fire to keep us warm and create a special atmosphere, while Joy prepares something to eat.

After dinner, despite the cold, we spend a few minutes outside, enchanted by a vast, dark sky before the moon rises. The stars are so clear that they appear to be closer. But at the same time, immersed in nothingness, we realise how big the universe is and how small and insignificant we are in comparison. We are just a small grain of sand, part of this world in which we live. We remind ourselves to be grateful for what we are experiencing and promise to remember these moments when our problems seem so big and important.

The phone app tells me that the moon will rise at 10.15pm. We are ready at that time and stare at the horizon, waiting for the moon to appear and illuminate the little dot that is our van in the middle of the desert. I have seen a thousand sunsets and sunrises in my life, but this is the first time I have consciously waited for the moonrise, which turns out to be a unique spectacle. We watch as a three-quarter orange moon, almost red, rises above the rocky chain that separates Morocco from Algeria. We’ve seen enough for one night and go to bed in complete silence.

Curiosity of the day: It is the first time in our lives that we've spent an extended period of time 'living' in the outdoors. It's made us notice small things that once in our everyday lives went unnoticed - like the time the moon rises and sets. When the moon is full, it rises in the east around the time the sun is setting. The moon rises about 50 minutes later each day due to the combination of the moon's orbit and the Earth's rotation. While the Earth makes a complete rotation, the Moon makes a partial revolution around it (13 degrees).  

Day 17 - Racing the camels and surfing the dunes of Merzouga 



Off-road Boudnib > Merzouga Pt. 2

After a quiet night, we wake up to see the sunrise, although some clouds mute the colours on the horizon.
We do not see a soul in the distance and there is not a single audible sound to be heard around us, except for a great silence. 
After breakfast, we take a few moments to relax and while we finish our coffee, we read a few pages of a book and strum the guitar. Then, with Olympian calm, we set off.
In the distance we hear the first sound that is definitely not made by nature. An off-road vehicle is approaching at high speed, despite the rocky and impassable road. A few minutes later, a local ranger joins us in his burgundy pick-up. He just wants to say hello and make sure we are OK, then drives off with a big smile on his face.

The route is interesting right from the start, on a nice smooth track, as we catch sight of some wild camels in the distance, slowly approaching and walking elegantly and efficiently, parallel to the road we are on. We enjoy this stretch, escorted for a few kilometres by this group of five camels. We are careful not to disturb them and when they stop at the side of the road we admire them for a few seconds before continuing.

A little further on, it is time to tackle the most technical and challenging section of the entire crossing. We are now close to the Algerian border and the road down from the plateau we are standing on is steep, narrow and rocky, with large boulders in the way.

It is only after we have taken it that Joy 'remembers' having read somewhere that they have recently opened a wider and easier military road with gentler gradients. We see it to our left, but it's to late and we don't like easy things anyway. The descent is not without its difficulties, with Joy walking down beside the van to take a few photos and give me a few pointers. We slowly skirt the Algerian border on a flat but rocky road before spotting an oasis of palm trees in the distance. As soon as we get there, we decide it is the perfect place for a lunch break. We eat while a shy donkey comes to greet us. Before setting off again, we take a few photos and videos of this happy and unusual little place in the middle of the desert.

We are now gradually approaching the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi in Merzouga and the terrain, first to the sides of the piste and then under our BF Goodrich All Terrain tyres, is becoming increasingly sandy. It is an exciting and stretch for us. It is the first time we have seen such large sand dunes in person and certainly the first time we have driven several kilometres in the sand. I am really impressed by how nimbly our van moves through the desert dunes, aided by the tyre pressure, which is now down to 1.3-1.6 bar for this final stretch.

Driving through the dunes is a strange but pleasant sensation. It almost feels like floating, like surfing on sand. We enjoy this last stretch, which is also used by locals and tourists to have fun on quads or dirt bikes, until we reach the tarmac road. From there we head for La Gazelle Bleue campsite, where we are greeted with a delicious mint tea and snacks. We enjoy them on the terrace watching the sun set.

Describing this trip in words does not do justice to the beauty of the landscapes and the emotions we felt, so we hope that the photos and the mini-documentary we posted on YouTube will help you understand what we experienced.


We are exhausted from these 180km in two days in the desert, but very happy with the experience and having further explored the limits and capabilities of our van.
This will certainly not be our last piste. We will first enjoy some rest and soon be venturing out on other dirt tracks.

Curiosity of the day Camels are not only fast drinkers (they can drink more than 100 litres in 10 minutes) but they are also fast (and elegant) runners. Apparently they can reach speeds of up to 60km/h.

Day 18 - Merzouga

Merzouga

We wake up slowly today. It's 8.30am when we finally manage to get up. At the campsite we are always a bit lazy, but we need a lie in now and then. As I get out of the van to go to the toilet, I am met by one of the campsite staff, who hands me some fresh 'khobz' and 'msemmern'. Bread and a kind of crêpe, freshly baked and offered by the campsite every morning. I put the mocha on and start to smile. It is the first coffee we have had since we were sick. Our stomachs are healed and will survive this ordeal unscathed.

We spend the rest of the morning and part of the afternoon working and planning the next few days. Around 4pm we decide to return to the Merzouga circuit in the dunes to have some fun driving in the sand, take some photos of the van in action and get to know this type of terrain better. 
As I pull over to the side of the road to let the air out of the tyres, we are approached by a local man who offers to guide us through the dunes. Despite his insistence, I politely decline and we set off into the sand.

The afternoon passes quickly, as it often does when you are having fun, and before we know it, night had fallen. Despite the low light, we notice the many white tents in the dunes of Erg Chebbi and wonder about these luxury campsites in the desert. It is certainly an interesting experience and idea, but seeing the desert covered in white tents (and the odd piece of rubbish) makes us think that maybe things are getting a bit out of hand.  There are so many luxury campsites in this area that there is now very little left of the pure natural environment.

Back at the campsite, it is getting late and we decide to eat out. We go to the centre of Merzouga and the restaurant we found on Google is closed. So we choose the one next door. We eat two omelettes and two harira soups, accompanied by orange juice and mint tea. 



Unbelievable but true, our stomachs pass the test. Digestion is not the easiest thing in the world, but the 1,000+ metre walk back to the campsite makes it easier. Back at the campsite we end the evening by ordering another mint tea (excellent at this campsite) which is delivered straight to our van.

Curiosity of the day In Erg Chebbi, the vast dunes reach up to 150 meters high, towering above the town of Merzouga. The sand is generally loose and very difficult to cross or climb. "Erg" means "dune sea", and there are several more in Morocco such as Erg Chegaga, which we’ll visit later on in our trip.

Day 19 - Back on the pistes

Merzouga - Lost city of Hassis-Ba-Hallou

We get up early this morning, having decided to watch the sun rise over the Erg Chebbi dunes, the highest in Merzouga at 860m. We get up at 7 a.m. with some difficulty, a quick wash, two biscuits and there is a knock at the door of the van. It is the man from the campsite bringing us fresh bread. We put it away for now, looking forward to the breakfast we will enjoy on our return.

By 7.30am we are ready to leave and head for the dunes. The climb takes longer than expected and by the time we see the first rays of sunlight, we are only a few metres from the summit. When we reach the top, exhausted but satisfied, we enjoyed the spectacle and began to take a few photographs. It was a special sunset, different from the ones we had seen before, although it lost some of its charm due to the cars and quads that were already starting to drive noisily around the dunes at this hour. In front of us, on a lower dune about a hundred metres away, about a dozen tourists, accompanied by Jeeps, are taking photos and playing loud music. Another sore point: even at the top of the dunes, rubbish is left on the ground. I can't find the words to describe this lack of respect, but we pick up what we can and don't let it spoil an otherwise beautiful sunset. Back in the van we get ready to leave and as we head out we make a quick stop in the village. A trip to the souk to pick up a few kilos of fresh fruit and vegetables for less than 3 euros and to stock up on bottled water.

On the way back to the van we spot Olly and Karen from @my_sprintervan sitting in a local bar enjoying a plate of Berber omelette. We stop for a few minutes to meet them in person (we only knew each other through Instagram) and have a nice chat, exchanging impressions and advice.

After filling up with gas, we head south towards Ouzine. From there, we start a 120km route that will take us through Ramlia towards Risani. In Ouzine we find a tree on the dirt road with some shade to make something to eat before we 'attack' the piste. As we finish our coffee, we are joined by two well-dressed gentlemen in local clothing who invite us to have tea in their riad not far away. At first we politely decline, but later we decide to accept and drive to their riad in our camper van. We drink tea in the well-kept courtyard, overlooking the desert, and when we leave, despite our insistence, the gentlemen refuse to let us pay. We thank them heartily, 'Shukran' and place a hand over our hearts, and leave. Perhaps we will return some day.

Now it's time to get serious about the route. Today's 50km piste will take us through breathtaking scenery, with rocky and then sandy tracks dictating the pace. We pass through the village of Ramlia where, before turning right, we are stopped by two little girls who ask us for sweets. We give them some tangerines, as we often do. They thank us with a smile and we drive on.

Twenty kilometres later, we reach the 'lost city' of Hassis-Ba-Hallou. On the left we see a green area in the valley with a few trees between the desert dunes. We like the place, look for a sheltered spot tucked away and decide to spend the night there.

We watch the sunset and prepare some food. In the evening we go out to light a fire and enjoy the starry sky. I don't think I've ever seen so many stars above and around me. Once again I feel small and I remember to be grateful to be able to experience these moments. It's time to sleep. Tomorrow we don't want to miss the sunrise and we have another 80km to go to Rissani.

Curiosity of the day Moroccan tea, also given the nickname ‘Whiskey Berbère’, consists of a mix of Chinese gunpowder green tea, fresh mint and is typically it is served with a heap of sugar. The mint, which grows naturally in the temperate zones in the north of the country, has a cooling effect and helps fight the heat of the summer days. The preparation and 'ceremony' of tea are also fundamental parts of the consumption of this beverage. The Moroccan tea ceremony is marked by measured and skilful gestures. Offering tea to guests is a sign of welcome and sharing, it becomes synonymous with friendship, cordiality and tradition. 

Day 20 - Lost in the desert

Lost city of Hassis-Ba-Hallou - Gare Medouar

We wake up 10 minutes after the alarm, just as the sun is about to rise. I quickly get dressed because I don't want to miss the first rays of sunshine and catapult myself out of the van: sand dunes and freezing temperatures close to 0 degrees make for a good morning. Joy gets up too and prepares breakfast.  As the sun slowly warms the day, we try to get two or three things done despite the almost non-existent internet connection.

By 11am we're ready to leave. Today we have 60km of dirt and another 20km or so of tarmac before we reach Gara Medouar, a natural site that was once a Portuguese prison. We climb up towards the lost city and leave it to the left, taking a steep descent into the sand. The route is still varied and interesting. On the way we only meet two Toyotas with Swiss travellers, 15 minutes apart. They are looking for each other and both ask me if I have seen the other Toyota. They should have found each other by now. We drive rather slowly as the rocky terrain, with its large potholes alternating with sandy stretches, forces us to constantly adjust our tyre pressure and proceed with caution.

After 30km we find two locals on a dirt bike on our road asking for water. We give them a bottle, set off again and stop for a quick coffee break. We are about to start the most challenging part of the day, so we better look sharp.

This stretch is not very busy and there is no real track. For a few kilometres you have to navigate and find your way through the sand dunes and dense bushes that populate this dried-up riverbed. For a few moments we hesitate about what to do. We are perplexed, but by walking around on foot to find the best route, we manage to get ourselves out of a situation that was as complicated as it was exciting. It's great to see how each day, as we find ourselves in new situations and on different terrain, we become more familiar with the vehicle and discover the qualities (and limitations) of this Sprinter that has really impressed us so far.

After a short break to cool down with a Coke in the dunes and another to re-inflate the tyres, we cover the last few kilometres off-road and arrive at Gara Medouar just before sunset. We find a nice spot under a tree near the Gara, which we will visit tomorrow.

Despite the poor internet connection, we finish the day's work, take a shower and prepare something to eat with the few remaining vegetables. After dinner we are more than ready for a good night's sleep.

Curiosity of the day We are enjoying the Moroccan pistes so much that to go from Merzouga to Rissani, which are 40 km of paved road apart, we chose to do a 150 km piste over two days. For us, it is more important to enjoy the journey, less the destination.

Day 21 - The desert is beautiful, but the mountains…


Gara Medouar - Assaka 

After a quiet night outside the old Portuguese prison, I get up at dawn. I walk out into the cold to have a look at the spectacle. On one side a vast plain with a few mountains in the distance, on the other the imposing natural walls of Gara Medouar. 



Gara Medouar is a geological formation in the shape of a horseshoe. In the 11th century, it was turned into a fortress with a military garrison. In the 19th century, it was also used as a prison. More recently, it has appeared in several Hollywood films.


Enough theory, it is time to dive into this fossil-rich arena. We park just inside the walls and walk up the dirt track to the top, which is at the other end of the entrance. At the top we chat to a friendly local vendor and enjoy a spectacular 360 degree view.

On the walk back down, we stop several times to dig up some fossils or special stones, pick up a few and set off in the van west towards Alnif. In this small town, we stop to do some shopping in a hanout (mini-market), buy fresh fruit and vegetables in the souk and stop for two Berber omelettes at the Cafe des Nomades. After lunch - it is now 3pm - we hit the road again. A few kilometres from there, in Tourza to be precise, is the start of the road that will take us over two passes to Tinghir.

At the entrance to the track we are confronted by about twenty children playing in the street, probably just out of school. They try to stop us and, as is often the case, ask us for sweets or money. We continue straight on and after a few hundred metres we stop to lower the tyre pressure: 1.9 bar in the front and 2.2 bar in the back for the next 60km of dirt road ahead.

The dirt road, which is in good condition to begin with, climbs steeply between the black mountains and soon we are at an altitude of 1500 metres. The views and panoramas we can enjoy on this stretch of road are unique. Imposing mountains that remind us of the Alps, but with a black volcanic colour. The road becomes narrow and is definitely not for those who suffer from vertigo. Despite our concentration on driving - the road surface has now become very uneven - we enjoy the drive and stop here and there to take a few photos.

Surprisingly, we meet a lot of people and vehicles on the road, even though it feels like we are in the middle of nowhere. We pass a truck, a van and several motorbikes, all local. Two men on motorbikes ask us to stop. We can't tell if they say they're hungry or if they want to sell us (or ask us) for cigarettes. We gave them two tangerines and they went away satisfied. Half an hour later we find a clearing on the left that seems to invite us to stop. The view is majestic and the place seems peaceful. A few buildings and some shepherds with their goats are barely visible in the distance. We decide to stay here for the night, after 20 km of dirt road. We take a sunset walk with the wind blowing in our faces and as night falls we take shelter in the van.

Tomorrow, another 30km of dirt road and about 50km of tarmac will take us to Tinghir.

Curiosity of the day Morocco is one of the most geo-diverse countries on earth and has an abundance of fossils. It’s crazy to think that millions of years ago the Sahara Desert would have been a shallow sea, with flourishing prehistoric sea creatures. 

Day 22 - Free bread delivered at 1600m

Assaka - Tinghir (Camping Atlas)

Sleeping in such picturesque places makes it easier to get up early and enjoy the early hours of the morning. After breakfast, with the peace and quiet and a good internet connection, we decide to devote a few hours to work and catch up on the blog you are reading now. After all, you don't get to work in an office like this every day.

At around 10.30am we start preparing the van to leave and just as we are almost ready, a man on a motorbike comes to pay us a visit. He stops on the side of the road and greets us. As I approach he asks if I want some bread. Why not, I think, and ask him how much it costs. The man, whose name is Hassan, does not want money and is happy to give us fresh bread. I take it gratefully and thank him. Hassan lives in Alnif, the village we passed through the day before, and explains that he regularly comes to these mountainous areas to look for meteorites. He adds me on Facebook, we take a photo together and he leaves me the address of his shop in Alnif in case we come back. I thank him again, he gets back in the saddle and without too much delay sets off in search of meteorites.

Time to get going. We cover the 30km of dirt road without too much of a hurry and enjoy the views, which are stunning again today. From time to time we pass a few houses and see children running more than 200 metres between the rocks of the mountain to join us on the road to say hello or ask if we have anything to eat. In these remote areas we like to leave something behind and so we decide to reward the children's sporting efforts with some tangerines or water. 


On the last stretch of dirt road I see a Mercedes Vario (very popular in Morocco, especially as a delivery vehicle) coming towards me. I stop as soon as I find a clearing to let it pass and are met with a smiling, good-humoured gentleman greeting me in Spanish and then began to speak to me in Berber. Unfortunately, as is often the case, I did not understand much and try to explain. He repeats the word 'aman' for a good minute and then made a sign for me to drink, handing me his empty wooden cup. I don't hesitate to fill it from our water bottle and give it back to him. The man quenches his thirst, thanks me warmly and loudly and leaves. These are encounters that leave you in a good mood and from which you can learn a few new words. Now we know the meaning of aman.

Back on the tarmac, we first stop to pump up the tyres as soon as we find a quiet place and then, about twenty minutes later, to prepare something to eat. We are only 30 minutes from Camping Atlas, but it is now 3pm and we are getting hungry. Better to do the last few kilometres on a full stomach. 



We arrive at the campsite around 4pm. We urgently need to do two loads of washing and empty the chemical toilet and grey water. We put on a load with sheets and have to find enough space to hang everything out. Emptying the chemical toilet turns out to be quite tedious and challenging, but we will spare you the details. After a nice shower, we prepared pasta with sauce and courgettes, accompanied by a good glass of red wine.

After dinner, I watch Inter play a tight game against Juventus on the laptop, while Joy does some chores.It has been a busy day and we are ready for bed, sure to sleep well.

Curiosity of the day Moroccans eat a lot of bread, and also use it as a utensil to pick vegetable and meat from the dish, it fits perfectly with their traditional cuisine that consists of tagines, soups, barbeques and vegetables. You can find it in most local shops and it is sometimes baked on the side of the road in big ovens. Normally a big round loaf costs between 1 and 2 dirhams (0.10 to 0.20 EUR) and several campsites provide you with free fresh bread every morning, delivered directly at the van.

With a campsite-break, a great week comes to an end. The more we explore the beauty of Morocco, the more we want to discover new places. Over the next few days we will be heading to the Todra and Dades Gorges, celebrating Joy's birthday and heading south again for more miles of desert track.
The adventure is not over yet, in fact it has just begun. See you soon for the next update.

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